A return to the origins (Menorca)

A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.
A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.

A return to the origins

We travel to the beginnings of the Mediterranean, in a tour though cultures and civilisations.

Day 1: Mahón, natural gateway of the Mediterranean

Start your travel diary in the great capital of Menorca, Mahón, the city that has been and still is the natural gateway of the Mediterranean. Using the time machine, which will accompany you throughout your tour of the isle, go straight to its origins: when Mago, the Carthaginian general and brother of the famous Hannibal, arrived in this practically virginal natural territory. Hence, in fact, the name of the city, Mahón, which has remained throughout the times, empires and conquests.

In this capital, in its streets and monuments, you will see the mark left behind by the Roman Empire, which came just after the Carthaginians. And by the Byzantines, Muslims and Normans, who invaded it and fought until it came under the rule of the Caliphate of Cordova. Although it was reconquered by Alphonse III of Aragon, peace was not to last long on this much-coveted Mediterranean island: if you walk along the Mahón coastline, you will soon find the underground galleries above which stood San Felipe Castle, a work conceived as a defensive fortification in response to of the worst attacks ever suffered by Menorca, that of the dreaded corsair Barbarossa.

On this very same coastline, in the surroundings of the port, you will also see some of the most important pieces bequeathed by the British in Menorca. The English were the island’s rulers during the eighteenth century after it was granted to them at the Treaty of Utrecht. During this time, the defence towers that can now be seen on the seaside of Mahón (as well as in other areas of Menorca, such as Ciutadella or Fornells) were erected; new paths of communication in the interior of the island were opened; and the isle became a vital area for both Mediterranean trade and military defence. Fort Marlborough, which can still be visited, was also built, and new life was given to the military hospital on the islet of Illa del Rei.

In addition to these monuments, in your tour through the origins of Mahón, you must visit the Museum of Menorca. You will find it in the Plaça del Monestir square, in an old Franciscan monastery, a unique historic building in the city, which contains an impressive Baroque cloister with an inner courtyard. Among its collections and exhibitions, you will find pieces that will take you even further back than the establishment of Mahón, straight to the island’s prehistory, with numerous elements of Talayotic culture that cannot be seen in any other museum in the world.

Following a morning of the purest culture and history, you may quietly wander around the centre, enjoy the placidity of its fishing atmosphere and the recesses of its streets, and find a good terrace where you may eat and discover the origins of Mahón in one of its best-preserved elements: its gastronomy. In addition to the caldereta de langosta lobster dish, one of the tastiest and most traditional dishes in the capital’s cuisine, you must also have a good snack consisting in a salad with the local mayonnaise (yes, the famous sauce was invented here on the occasion of the landing of the French Duke Richelieu), start your meal with the typical soup (oliaigua con tomate), which is usually seasoned with olives or figs; while for dessert, you can have carquinyols, crespells, bunyols, flaó menorquín or, quite simply, a home-made ice-cream. Now that we are talking about gastronomy and good food, do not miss the chance to visit the only gin distillery in Menorca: Xoriguer, in the Moll de Ponent dock in Maó. One can taste this famous Mediterranean gin and see how it is made.

Save the afternoon for enjoying some of the prettiest coves on the Mahón coastline: Cala Presili, Cala Tortuga, Cala Sa Torreta, Cala Tamarells, Punta Prima or Cala Mesquida. Many of them are virgin coves and almost all of them are recommended for visiting with one’s partner or children. After night falls, have dinner in Calesfonts, in Es Castell. This small nucleus, originally a fishing area, is one of the fashionable meeting points in the surroundings of Mahón for either a romantic meal followed by some drinks or for a good dinner with one’s family, by the sea and under the stars.

Day 2: The true roots of Menorca

Above all else, the views, the vegetation, the minuscule insects, the sea… It was all there and still remains the essence of Menorca, the key of the original isle, its natural richness. Much of its territory being practically virginal, it has become a stronghold of the most authentic countryside in the Mediterranean. This is why it proudly displays its declaration as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which means that much of your tour through the origins will require a visit to its best-concealed natural paths. So get ready for a day of trekking and live nature. Prepare your rucksack along with a good picnic with typical products and do not forget the map. The adventure has begun.

The ideal plan is to set off from Mahón to the Natural Park of S’Albufera des Grau –the largest wetland in Menorca – and choose the destination of the Arenal d’en Castell sandbank. In order to truly experience this, it is best to walk this route through the emblematic Camí de Cavalls, which was created over 700 years ago and covers all of Menorca’s coastline. If possible, choose a section of the Camí within S’Albufera: whether you are going with children, friends or your partner, you will enjoy this to the fullest as its path makes it possible to observe the large diversity of birds that live in this protected space and leads you to unique corners by the sea.

A good option is that of walking from to the Favaritx lighthouse, which takes some 3 hours (covering some 9 km) and is of medium difficulty. If you are travelling in a group, it is best to leave a car at the destination point and take the other one to the starting point in order not to walk all the way back again. Throughout this and other routes that can be walked in S’Albufera, you will find some of the most important prehistoric vestiges in Menorca. Talayotic culture becomes obviously present in the town of Sa Torreta and the megalithic monuments you will come across on the way.

Upon reaching the Favaritx lighthouse, you will be in for a surprise: the view you will find in this sport of Menorca - far from being covered in Aleppo pine and holm oak woodland, among lagoons, torrents and golden sand beaches – is more akin to a moonscape. In this trip to the origins of Menorca, its spectacular deep cliffs are a must, as are the large, dark, almost black slate sheets of rock, which flash next to the sea.

Since at this point of the trip it will start to get dark, the best option is to head towards Fornells, have a swim in one of its nearby coves, such as the famous Cala Pregonda, and then eat an early dinner. In the port area, looking on to the bay of Fornells, and in its adjoining streets, you will find various restaurants in which you can taste what is regarded as the best caldereta de langosta in all of Menorca. To close the day, have a walk around the centre of the town, enjoying a typical dessert and a refreshing home-made ice-cream.

Day 3: Journey to the heart of the island

The pure, deep, most traditional Menorca. To see the origins of Menorca and its best-kept essence throughout the centuries, few places could be more appropriate than its interior villages. The third day of the visit should be saved for entering rural Menorca, an island within an island, where time would seem to have stopped every time one lays foot on it.

Es Mercadal, Ferreries, Alaior, Es Migjorn are full of surprises for all tastes and constitute a pleasure for the senses. These are villages of millennial customs, where the traditional country architecture of Menorca gives shape to its profiles and where one can taste the best wines, admire its most prized craftsmanship, enjoy the local cuisine, the placid harmony of its people and its incomparable popular festivals.

Summer is one of the best seasons for getting to know these towns in the centre of Menorca. Es Mercadal, for example, makes a good start. Located in the heart of the island, overlooked by its highest point, Mount Toro, this colourful municipality is like a postcard: small whitewashed houses distributed in narrow, involved streets full of bars, restaurants and local craft stores and museums. There are guided visits to the town which, in about two hours, shows their essential areas of interest and will make you discover the placid daily routines of its inhabitants.

The centre of the municipality, the villa of Es Mercadal, lies at the foot of Mount Toro – where the temple in honour of the Virgin of El Toro, the patroness of Menorca, was erected - and its first stories date back to the thirteenth century. It is nowadays a pleasure to see its semi-hanging houses descending the sides of the hill, walk on its small bridges and through its most emblematic streets (carrer Major and carrer Nou) until coming across the simplicity of the white shape of Sant Martí Church, the Racó Mill –which still functions -, or visit the Pla de ses Eres, the cistern of Kane’s Road, the first road built by the English in Menorca during their insular rule.

One of the essential stopovers is the Craft Centre of Es Mercadal, where the most traditional products rub shoulders with the ideas of the island’s young designers. When talking of crafts in Menorca, it is impossible not to think about the “abarcas”: the peasant footwear par excellence that has become world famous and a must of summer fashion in the whole of the Mediterranean. In Es Mercadal, one can find the place where the most authentic “abarcas” are prepared. Carmelo Servera, who inherited his grandfather’s business, has succeeded in following the tradition from one generation to the next, heading the most important “abarca” workshop in Menorca: Can Servera.

Going from one craft to the next, one must also point out that Es Mercadal has the Menorcan cellars, the source of the first wines with the Designation of Origin Vi de la Terra Illa de Menorca.

If you decide to dedicate your whole morning to Es Mercadal, in addition to walking and shopping, you must also join in the traditional berenar (snack). Go to a terrace and, before midday, have a good toasted bread with oil, with slices of Mahón cheese, or alternatively, you could stop at one of the traditional confectioneries and bakeries of which you will find dozens in your walks (for instance, Cas Sucrer) and buy the traditional carquinyols, which are dry, crusty pastries made from almonds. If it happens to be Thursday, you will find the town in an unusual state of bustling activity: this is the day of the craft market and here you will not only find pretty souvenirs but also delicious gourmet products of homemade Menorcan cuisine, such as the amargos, the Christmas pastry par excellence.

The liveliest summer festivities in Es Mercadal take place in July, honouring Saint Martin and, as has been traditional in all of Menorca, the horse and the “jaleo” festival are indispensable elements. The festivities go on for days in keeping with customs established centuries ago, which the locals retain and commemorate every year with fervour.

Day 4: The whitest town in the world

No trip to the origins of Menorca would be complete without one of the centres of its most rural heart: Ferreries, the whitest town in the world, in the words of the writer Josep Pla. This municipality is well-known as it is here – more specifically in Santa Águeda Castle - where the Muslims spent their last hours and it is noted for integrating mountains and plains full of fertile land in its countryside.

In Ferreries everything is slow because that is what it has always been like. Because they know that by doing things calmly, they turn out much better and much tastier than if made in a rush. The tourist frenzy arrived late in Ferreries. Here, albeit to a much greater extent than before, one can still see the peasants working in the fields and taking care of their cattle, looking after their vineyards and preparing marmalades, varied cold cuts and cuixot.

But the town’s crafts are not confined to gourmet products as excellent wooden furniture is made here as is jewellery, carefully crafted wicker, iron and ebony. All of these products - along with wines, spirits, marmalades, honey and leather items – can be found every Saturday in the craft market that appears in the town’s main square. Regarding the historical centre, you must not miss the temple of Sant Bartomeu, the House of Ses Voltes, the Plan of the Church, the Plaça de la Peixateria square and the calle Dalt street.

In relation to its most primitive area, it is worth visiting the archaeological remains of the town of Son Mercer de Baix, in the zone of the cliffs of Son Fideu and Algendar, and the burial zone of Cova des Pas. Regarding more recent history, Ferreries has traditional Menorcan farmhouses and estates as are to be found nowhere else: Son Triay, Binissués and the best-known of them all, Sant Patrici. In this case, S’Hort de Sant Patrici agglutinates various experiences: from a hotel to a dairy and vineyards of its own, an ecological garden and a careful production of naturally made local products made. This estate, besides, includes art, beautiful indigenous gardens, a restaurant and even a store of its own.

Day 5: The home of cheese

We close this return to the origins by heading off to the east, returning to the starting point. There, halfway between Ciutadella and the capital of Menorca we find Alaior, a town of small white houses that shine against the blue sky. It is near the beaches and the natural park of S’Albufera and conceals one of Menorca’s best and most delicious secrets: this is the town from where the cheese of Mahón originates.

One of the most veteran dairies is Quesos Torralba, which used to be in the heart of the town, in a small establishment in Carrer de Sa Bolla street, and which nowadays continues to make its homemade cheeses, albeit in the outskirts, in the Carretera Nova area, where they have more space. According to its master craftsmen, no two cheeses are the same, just as Alaior is never the same, wherever you may go. The town changes and adapts, without losing its essence, but always offering something different.

Yes, Alaior is a box of surprises. On the one hand, it took over from the major cities, Mahón and Ciutadella, as the university town, gaining the only delegation of the University of the Balearic Islands in Menorca. Another noteworthy aspect is that Alaior is an inland municipality, but has always had distinguished inhabitants from the Menorcan nobility. In fact, the university venue is precisely the Salort Palace, one of the best samples of what the mansions of the island’s wealthiest people were like in the past.

If you have the audacity to traverse this, you will still be surprised: Alaior, while not the largest municipality, does contain most of the island’s ruins, monuments and archaeological sites, such as the Navetas de Rafal Rubí and the spectacular necropolis of Calesnoves, located next to the cove of the same name and in which one can see up to 90 caves excavated in the rock. Here one can also see a Roman temple and much more recent seafaring constructions.

In the heart of the village of Alaior, in addition to white houses, you will discover an amazing monumental heritage: the welcoming Rosario chapel, within Santa Eulalia Church – named after the patroness of the town -, the charming medieval alleys, the Franciscan cloister of Sa Lluna, the Sant Pere Nou hermitage, the Ángel lookout… You will also find art centres, galleries and exhibitions showing the more cultured, traditional and eclectic side of these lands.

After this bit of culture, it is time to go to stores. Since you are in Alaior, our recommendation is that you check out the gourmet boutiques, the traditional cold cuts stores and the dairies. Remember you are in the land of cheese and should not leave its old quarter without at least a small sample of its delicate taste. Buy a bit of bread and take whatever is needed for having a picnic on one of the town’s beaches.

Its coastal area, which you can descend to once you have finished the routes in the old quarter, contains one of the most beautiful beaches in the east, such as Son Bou –near which there is a nineteenth-century watchtower that is well worth visiting – and Cala en Porter, the location of one of the best places for enjoying an evening with a sunset and a toast with pomada (Menorcan gin and lemonade) or the odd exotic cocktail: the Cova den Xoroi.

After sunset, the ideal area for stopping over and having something to eat is that of Es Carreró and the Plaça de la Constitució, right in the centre of Alaior, not far from the city hall building. There you will find various restaurants and taverns with terraces to choose from, local and international cuisine for all tastes and, moreover, on Wednesday nights in summer, a craft market is usually celebrated, filling it all with the perfect atmosphere for having a good time after dinner.